Making Page Turns Work For You

Making Page Turns Work For You

In the events of Poetry and Prose, that little black binder serves as an extension of you. Although it is never to be used as a prop, if manipulated appropriately, that binder can be used as a tool to enhance your performance. One such way to subtly use your binder as an interpretative agent is to utilize page turns. Think about it. We create a cutting of Prose/Poetry and divide our piece into manageable paragraphs that can stand alone and place each chunk on a separate page. We then have to pause and turn the page to move along. That pause and turn can either be used to draw the audience in or remind them you have a binder in your hands. Paying attention to page turns and planning the choreography of them can also add a subliminal edge to your performance that may help lead to a higher rank. Presentation is vital when you hold a binder, and the following items below can help your performance.

Essentially there are two types of turns: the slow turn and the quick turn. As simple as this concept sounds, actually interpreting which speed of turn is the most effective for a specific page can make a difference in the visual story you tell. If you are going to put energy into facials, gestures, and other body movements then why wouldn’t you plan out the movement of your binder/pages? Using a slow turn tells a tale of being somber, reflective, fearful, etc. A slow turn also allows for you to give a deliberate facial while either “reading” through to the next page or using silence as emphasis. A slow turn also works very well when you first open your binder and when you last close it. This slow turn lets you capture the audience and ease them in/out of the story. Further, a slow turn allows time for you to make eye contact with your audience while not “reading”. This can be a great way to leave your audience feeling important and part of your presentation, thus drawing them further into your story.

A quick turn is wonderful to accentuate panic, desperation, anger, excitement, or any other pulse quickening emotion. A quick turn can be done and then followed with a pause to highlight a moment or it can be utilized with you reading from page to page swiftly. I would recommend using quick turns sparingly as they can be jarring. If used too much a quick turn loses its impact as well. Most often, having one or two quick turns captures the audience’s attention; not only from the speed and the ‘whoosh!’ sound that is created but from the emotional action. It’s a vocal, violent turn, and this simple turn gets the audience excited and engaged.

One thing to remember when contemplating the slow or quick turn is speed variation. Not all slow and quick turns are created equally. You will not want to turn too swiftly/slowly or risk losing your audience. The trick is to be dramatic/theatrical but not overly melodramatic. If you were to see a dramatic Prose with a performer taking forever to turn their page because they wanted to look at the audience with tears and a sad face for an eternity, you would either yawn or laugh. Either way, that turn failed.

Another thing to think about is what material composes your pages. Do you just have your cutting glued/taped onto black paper or do you have your pages placed in plastic covers? Different materials lend themselves to how easy/difficult it is to grab and turn a page. I always found basic black construction paper to work best. The page was firm yet had a bend to it which I found easy to grip and turn. I could also easily jot notes directly onto my page with the only hassle being finding a pencil. In comparison, plastic covers irritated me. They were slippery, which made turning pages a game of can I grasp it? Plastic covers also meant I had to remove the page from the cover before I could write anything. Not a huge deal, but this ended up being a chore and aggravating when I had a thought that might float away.

If you do have issues grabbing a page, an easy solution is to place a tape tab on the edge of the page (a tape tab is made simply by taping one end of a tape strip to the front of the page while folding the other end over to the back of the page). Align tabs as you would divider tabs in any binder (top to bottom) and viola! You can now easily grab hold of every page in your binder—-and in sequential order no less!

There are a few other presentational concerns to ponder which you can divine through the interpretation of your piece. Tempo of turns, gestures to make mid turn, facials to accompany the turn, etc. Remember to keep acting/presenting during the turn to keep hold of your audience and thus integrate the turn into your performance. It is up to you to make a turn noticeable or seamless, but it should never be boring or obviously a break from the piece. You also want to consider what and how much of the reading you place on each page so that the turns act as transitions to help pacing and flow, and not act as a necessity which takes away from the performance. Think about where breaks are important—-usually with new information, a realization, change of topic, or anything that is novel. By breaking up your piece appropriately, you make the turns serve more as a natural transition/pace regulator that you can utilize and capitalize on, rather than a mere awkward turn.

Thinking over turns and how to use them can be a nit-picky, detail-oriented task. Yet, as your performance improves and the season draws near an end, it is in the details where ranks are made. Plan them out and see your piece become extraordinary.

The Forensics Community offers helpful advice, news, tournament results, articles, videos, and all things fun for the Speech and Debate community. Chat with teams across the nation. See what’s new in the world of Forensics. Choose to voice your own opinion in a blog or in Speech and Debate related polls.

And above all, have fun!

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Insider Secrets Of Candle Making Equipment

Insider Secrets Of Candle Making Equipment

Candles are mystical flickering things, which can uplift anyone’s mood, but certain candle making equipment is needed to make them. Without the proper equipment making a good candle would be impossible. So let’s look at what candle making equipment is needed, and how it should be set up so it help you easily make a candle.

There is always a chance of fire when working with wax, especially if it gets too hot. So make sure that you have a fire extinguisher in the nearby vicinity as part of your candle making equipment. If a fire occurs you can quickly put it out this way.

A double boiler is the preferred method for melting most of the waxes. Now you can combine two pots you already have for this. It is better for melting the wax because it melts without getting too hot.

Have a metal spoon or spatula for stirring the wax. You will have to mix in the scents or colors. Metal is the best material for stirring because plastic or wood utensils would pick up the color and/scents. Eventually they could transfer the residues into the wax.

You will also have to decide whether you are using glass jars, glass containers, or molds to form you candles. There are so many sizes and shapes of the glass jars and containers not to mention the numerous molds that are available to choose from. Of course with the glassware the candles are no unmolded like the molds.

Have a good thermometer to make sure the wax gets to the right temp. Any wax needs to get at the right temp to make a good candle. You can buy a special candle wax thermometer or a food thermometer would work too.

Now set up your kitchen work area to conveniently make your candles. Lay out an area for melting by the stove. This can also be your prep area too. Then you need a pouring area for easy cooling make this you cooling area too. This way you will not have to move hot containers or molds. Make sure this is an area where they will be left alone and are out of the sun.

You will then need an area to unmold your molded candles. Make sure this can handle the scraps of wax that may occur. You should also have room to sit your finished projects.

If you are giving the candles for gifts you may need a place to box and wrap them up too. Many candles are given away each year.

Then you need a cleanup area to clean your molds and other candle making equipment before you store them. This makes sure they are ready for the next time you need them. You will just be able to pull them out and use them.

When you have the right candle making equipment, candle making is very rewarding. You can even start a home business and make yourself some money. You can also wow your friends and family with unique presents throughout the years.

Peggy Devereaux is an expert candle maker.  For more great information about
candle making equipment, visit http://www.candlemakeranswers.com

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Making Mead (honey wine), A Simple Recipe

Making Mead (honey wine), A Simple Recipe

How to brew honey mead, short and sweet.

Honey Mead
** 15 lbs of honey in 5 gallon batch makes good sweet but 20 lbs of honey is like cotton candy. I like to use the pasteurized processed clover honey from Sam’s Wholesale club or Wal-Mart. I’ve tried different honey with varying result. The honey makes a dramatic difference in the body and flavor of your mead. Pasteurized and processed honey negates the need for campden tablets as long as you’re not putting in anything else that may be contaminated with bacteria. Use good filtered water too. It really makes a difference. I use a Britta filter.

INGREDIENTS for each gallon of mead to be made:

2 1/2 to 3 lbs. (about 26 – 32 fl. oz.)unprocessed honey (dry to semi-sweet)
Water to one gallon (Specific Gravity – 1.085 – 1.105)
1 tsp. Super Ferment (or 2 tsp. regular “nutrient”)
2 tsp. acid blend (or 3/4 tsp. tartaric acid & 1 1/4 tsp. malic acid)
1 tsp grape tannin
1 campden tablet* (crushed- or substitute 1/8 tsp. sodium metabisulfite)
1-2 pkgs. wine (e.g. Premier Cuvee, Champagne, Cote des Blancs, Sherry) or mead yeast

PROCEDURE:

1. Mix all the ingredients EXCEPT the yeast and the campden tablet. Stir the must until the honey and additives are completely dissolved. Cover the pail to keep out dust and air with the large plastic sheet.

2. Crush and dissolve the campden tablet in 1 oz. of warm water. Add this to the must and stir well. Cover the pail again and tie down the plastic sheet. Let the must stand for one day, stirring several times.

*ALTERNATIVE: Heat honey with an equal volume of water to 180°F and let stand for 15 minutes to pasteurize. (DO NOT BOIL!) Cool and add remainder of water before proceeding to next step.

3. Rehydrate the dried yeast by sprinkling it into 1/2 cup lukewarm (95 – 100° F) water in a sanitized jar and cover for 20 minutes. (If using “Mead” yeast, prepare a starter 48 hours prior to using.) Add the yeast “slurry “/starter to mixture. Re-cover the primary fermenter and allow fermentation to proceed for 30-40 days or until foaming subsides.

4. Syphon the mead into a sterile glass jug. Avoid the transfer of sediment and aeration as much as possible. Be sure the mead completely fills the jug – into the neck. Attach a fermentation lock and allow the fermentation to go to completion (.995 – 1.020 S.G.).

5. One week after fermentation has ceased, syphon the mead into another sterile glass jug. Again, avoid the transfer of sediment and aeration. Crush, dissolve and add 1/2 campden tablet per gallon to the mead. Allow the mead to stand for one month in a cool dark place and repeat “racking” process. If at the end of three months, the mead is clear – bottle it. If it is not clear, repeat this step every month until it is clear and then bottle it. The mead may be sweetened to taste with additional honey, if desired, after stabilization (1/2 tsp. potassium sorbate & 1/2 campden tablet per gallon).

Note: All equipment should be well washed and sterilized with a solution of sodium metabisulphite. Fermentation temperatures should be no lower than 60 degrees F. or higher than 80 degrees F.

For an interesting variation, try adding a 6 oz. can frozen juice (e.g. orange, apple, cranberry) and cut back on the acid blend by 1 tsp.

Ratio for different meads – (parts by volume honey: parts by volume water)

DRY: 1:4 (2 1/2 lbs. honey per gallon)
SEMI-DRY: 1:3 (3 lbs. honey per gallon)
SWEET: 1:2.5 (4 lbs. honey per gallon)

EQUIPMENT REQUIRED FOR MAKING MEAD

Large Plastic pail or earthenware crock (primary fermenter)
One gallon glass jug (secondary fermenter)
Fermentation lock & drilled rubber stopper
Syphon tubing
5 ” Fifth” wine bottles and corks per gallon
Large plastic sheet

 

Other Sources:

http://www.SimpleHomeBrewing.com
http://www.squidoo.com/easybeermaking
http://www.squidoo.com/honeymead

James enjoys a myriad of hobbies from computer gaming, paranormal research, web design, teaching & adult training, natural healing & herbalism to making his own wine and beer. He is an avid home brewer and has been for many years specializing in traditional honey and fruit based wines. More recently he has begun serious study into beer recipes and methods and plans on producing a series of beer videos on youtube to match his “super simple winemaking” videos that are so popular on the site.

Project websites include:

http://simplehomebrewing.com

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Special Tips For Making Great Scented Candles

Special Tips For Making Great Scented Candles

 

Making scented candles is simple. Wax+ Scent+ Color=Scented Candle. But how do you make those candles stand out from the sea of other scented candles out there. One way is to corner the “green” market. With a little bit of research you can be making scented candles that appeal to those who are more eco-conscious.

A few of the elements of your candles that will appeal to the “green” community include things like renewable wax sources and natural fragrances. Another thing you can do to help your “green” marketing efforts is to package your candles in biodegradable or recyclable materials such as glass or recycled paper or card board. Play up these points and you’ll be well on your way. So now let’s talk about actually making scented candles for this demographic.

One of the attributes that make environmentally sustainable candles so marketable is the wax. Waxes such as soy and beeswax are environmentally friendly. Soy wax is made from soy beans, and soy beans are one of the most widely farmed products in the country today, providing everything from food to oil to biofuel.  Soy wax burns at a low temperature making it a better choice to have in a home with families, as it’s less likely to cause burns. Making scented candles with soy wax also has another unique benefit. When warm the wax, which is somewhat oily, is used as a great massage oil since it’s beneficial for the skin.  Beeswax is a much more dense wax, but it has advantages as well. Making scented candles from all natural beeswax is very simple as the wax already has a natural sweet scent and color that is characteristic of the wax. If you get the wax directly from the bee keepers, the wax will often still contain flower pollen, adding to the sweet smell.

The other attribute of “green” candles that makes them so marketable is that they are usually scented with pure essential oils. These oils provide a variety of healthy benefits through aromatherapy. Making scented candles with pure essential oils allows for the oils to be suspended in the wax, which makes it last longer than using it in any other way.

The final thing to consider when you are making scented candles that really appeals to this particular demographic is the packaging. The packaging should be recyclable or made of post-consumer recycled material such as card board boxes and raffia ribbons. Be sure when labeling your products for sale that you play up the eco-angle and you’ll be sold out of those eco-friendly scented candles in no time.

Pat McTigue is a candle making enthusiast. For great information on
making scented candles, visit http://candlemakingsuccessplan.com/.

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Making Cold Process Soap

Making Cold Process Soap

What is soap? Soap is a substance that’s used for cleansing and it is made when a chemical reaction occurs between lye (Sodium Hydroxide) and fat.

Soap got its name when the Romans at ‘Mount Sapo’, a popular location for animal sacrifices, discovered it. Rain mixed the animal fat residue (tallow from cattle) with the burned wood on clay and a chemical reaction occurred. Women living on the banks of the Tiber river discovered that clothes which they washed using this substance were much cleaner and cleaned with much less effort.

When making soap, there are some substances that are necessary for this process. Let’s take a look at them.

Fats – fats are oils from animals or vegetables. Animal fats are fats from beef tallow (of course this is less animal friendly and less commonly used these days). Vegetable oils that are most commonly used for soap making are olive, coconut, cocoa, and palm oils.

Lye – (Sodium Hydroxide) or another common name, caustic soda. Lye needs to be dissolved in water in order to actively react with.

Water – The best water to use for soap making is distilled water. Hard water contains minerals and salts that may interfere with this chemical reaction. It is always recommended to follow a given recipe and measure the water and the lye. Not having enough water may result in hard, dry soap, and too much water may yield too soft of a soap.

Essential oils and herbs – essential oils add fragrance to soap. In some cases skin-sensitive people use soap with no fragrance. When herbs are added to soap they add color, change the texture and contribute their qualities for relaxing and healing skin. Some herbs work as exfoliates.

Tools – Stainless steel pot (never aluminum!), 2 wooden spoons, wide mouthed glass jar (at least 2 quarts), thermometer that reads between 80’F – 110’F, shoe box or cardboard box about this size, plastic wrap, safety glasses, and rubber gloves. Avoid using these tools for eating; dedicate them only for soap making. Also clean them separately from your kitchen utensils.

First step – Making the lye solution

This step requires the most precaution. Wearing safety glasses and rubber gloves is a must. To prevent inhaling the lye fumes, it is best to do this outdoors. Start by adding lye gently to distilled cold water while stirring carefully. You shoul not use hot water to begin with, since lye heats up on it’s own in reaction to contact with the cold water and it’s undesirable for this solution to boil. Also, do not do the opposite of adding water to lye as this may cause explosion. If you see a thin layer of white crust at the bottom of the jar, keep stirring gently until all the lye is dissolved in the water.

Second Step – Melting the Fats
Melt the oils (fats) in a stainless steel pot and only when melted, begin adding olive oil while stirring well.

Third Step – Mixing the Lye Solution with the Fats
Using the safety glasses and rubber gloves, measure the temperature of lye solution and that of the oils. If the oils’ temperature is high, you can immerse this pot into a sink of cool water to slightly cool the temperature. Some soap makers suggest that the temperature of both substances should be between 100’F – 110’F. We recommend measuring between 95’F – 98’F. When both substances reach the same temperature, slowly pour the lye solution into the oils. Patiently stir until the substances are fully mixed (This may take some time. Patience is critical at this stage).

Fourth Step – Adding Fragrances, colorants and Herbs
This is when fragrances, colorants or herbs are added to the mixture. Simply follow the amounts in you recipe. There’s no exact amount of time for how long to stir, it can vary from five to forty minutes. Stir until you see ‘trace’. Trace means when you pick up the spoon and are able to draw on the surface by dripping from the spoon. A successful trace should enable you to see the drops for few seconds before they disappear back into the mixture. The mixture should be as thick as pudding.

Fifth Step – Saponification
Pour the mixture into a plastic wrap lined box or a shoebox. Cover the box with its lid and then cover the lid with a blanket. It is very important to not disturb the mixture until saponification is done. At this stage the substance is turns from a mixture into solid soap. It has to sit for 18-48 hours while it releases heat.

Sixth Step – Remodeling the Soap
After saponification, remove the lid and the blanket, and set it aside for another 12 hours. The fresh and fragrant soap is now ready to be removed from the mold. If you see a thin layer of oil and a white crust that looks like chalk, it indicates that you succeeded in making a good batch. If you see a layer, which is grossly separated, wrap it and throw it away as this batch has failed. Using rubber gloves, cut the soap into bars, or shape it like clay. You can also mold it with cookie cutters or stamp it. Set the soap aside again to cure for two to three weeks. The soap is ready to use then.

Iris Fuchs – SoapMakingStore.com, specializing in the highest quality soap making kits, soap making supplies, soap making training books, DVD’s and informational material.
Visit http://www.soapmakingstore.com

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Making our skies eco-friendly with more carbon offsets and energy-efficient techniques

Making our skies eco-friendly with more carbon offsets and energy-efficient techniques

Does your environmentally-friendly conscience prevent you from enjoying your trip? If you’re worried about all the wasted energy and CO2 pollution taking place during travel, think again. Although we are a long way off from planes being powered solely by solar or wind energy, there are still ways to offset the negative effects of flying. The good news is that you can help make your trips as “unpolluted” as possible, from beginning to end, by following a few simple steps:

Try booking direct flights. They may be a bit more expensive but a giant energy saver since the most amount of fuel is utilized during takeoff and landing. Think of all the extra time you’ll be saving as well by avoiding layovers.

Chose airlines which make significant efforts towards green travel whether by utilizing newer, energy-saving airplanes or working towards cutting flight times.

Do your best to always pack light and remember to put the travel size toiletries into reusable containers instead of packages. When you have too many bags not only do you waste more time checking in during departure and at baggage claim upon arrival, but the extra weight on the plane engages the engines that much more, thereby causing it to utilize more fuel. Our goal is exactly the opposite.

Consider taking public transportation to and from the airport instead of your own car or taxi. A bus is like carpooling. It saves cash, pre-trip aggravation, and most importantly energy. It also gives you the opportunity to pass on your green-travel ideas.

Water is always a must so precisely for this reason plan to invest in a water bottle. It will come in handy during air travel. Ask the flight attendant to refill your bottle en-route instead of using plastic cups.

Forming a bond with your destinations and becoming loyal to them will ensure their future. Make plans to revisit your favorite places. Your support will help keep them just as they are.

At the end of each trip, think about ways to reduce your carbon footprint. Become a member of a tree-planting project, start investing in wind energy, purchase a carbon calculator, sponsor green activities and donate to eco-friendly causes. Impart useful information to your fellow tourists. There’s plenty of time before, during, and after your trip to discuss ways in which you’ve contributed to saving the environment. Set an example for others and this too will be a part of your carbon offset.

Caring about the environment does not have to impede your travel plans in any way. Now that your conscience is clear go ahead and book your next getaway. Plan ahead and make the right decisions before and during your trip and aim to reduce your carbon footprint afterwards. So relax, visit your favorite place, and spread your positive, eco-friendly influence all over.

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Envirocitizen.org is a comprehensive ecommerce website that combines robust commerce, content, and community.  We believe that we have created the most comprehensive site to date to make eco-friendly products, services, and information available to individuals who wish to live a green, more eco-friendly lifestyle.  Our site offers a very broad and diverse array of eco-friendly products as well as comprehensive, authoritative information and environmental education.  Additionally, users can enjoy the sense of community created by participating in our Forum.

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Making Dried Flowers

Making Dried Flowers

Dried flowers, plants and herbs are another way to enjoy cut flowers. Whether those plants are from your garden, store bought or picked wild they are a longlasting keepsake of nature. Did you know that drying flowers is a craft you can do yourself?


Introduction to the Craft


Fortunately there are many flowers that dry well; so experiment with flowers that you like. Do not harvest growing plants until they are completely dry of any rain or dew. Pick them at the base of the stem for long lengths in arranging. Place cut flowers in a warm, dry area away from direct light. The simplist method of drying is air drying where the plants are hung from a wire to dry naturally.


Drying time varies considerably depending on air temperature and humidity. Once the drying is complete you should store them in a place that won’t require you to move them around frequently as they are delicate. Never store them in plastic containers or plastic bags as they will sweat and then rot. Keep them in a cardboard box with ventilation holes. If the flowers were preserved using silica gel, apply a thin layer of the gel to the bottom of the box.


Methods of Drying


For bulk drying large quantities air drying is the best method. Strip off unwanted leaves. Bunch the flowers together using an elastic band. Don’t bunch too many together or allow the flower heads to closely touch each other. Some very large heads are best dried individually.


If you tangle leaves and blooms together in the bunch they will stay in that position when dried. Hang them suspended from secure hooks in a place with air circulation. Drying time is anywhere from a few days to several weeks. You can tell they are ready when they feel quite crisp. Easy enough!


A very different process to get dried flowers involves using silica gel. It results in the flowers retaining spectacular color and appearing almost fresh. The silica gel (resembling rock salt) must be ground to fine granules. It can be reused countless times. This method works for flower heads. Once the flower head is totally dry you can begin. Egg cartons or small plastic flower pots are ideal as the holding area for the gel and flower head.


Tins can be used for a large quantity of flowers. The egg carton or pot must be filled 1/3 full of gel. Set in the flower head and start with the outer petals and work in. Gently spoon the gel between each petal. Do this until the head is fully covered.


Cover and check on them in 2 days. Remove flower heads when dry to avoid overdrying them. Large-headed flowers sometimes take 5 days. Be extremely gentle in removing the flower. Excess gel can be removed with a fine watercolor brush. To revive the flower’s color spray a bit of wax polish on it.


A suitable method for drying large flowers like sunflowers and peonies is to dry them flat. Lay them on a wire garden sieve and rest it on raised objects to create a space. Again, drying time can be 2 to 5 days. Another method for drying in emergencies uses an oven or microwave.


The trick is to set the temperature in a conventional oven at its very lowest setting. Drying will take 30 to 60 minutes. A microwave oven should be set very low. Check the plants very frequently. Try once each couple of minutes.


Glycerin is the perfect substance for preserving plants such as mimosa and gypsophila. Boil about 2 pints of water and add a large tablespoon of salt to dissolve in the water. After the water cools a little pour into a jar. Stand this jar in a bucket as support for the plant. Stand the stems in the hot water for 24 hours. Make a mixture of 1 part glycerin to 2 parts hot water.


Replace the old water with this new mixture and stand the plant in it up to 10 days. The leaves will look darker and feel slightly sticky when ready. During recent years dried floral arrangements have become popular and much loved. You can arrange your flowers in a container of your choosing. You could press flowers with a flower press instead of using previous drying methods explained in order to display your flowers flat.

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After Making Herb Vinegar From your Herbal Gardens Freeze and Dry your Herbs

After Making Herb Vinegar From your Herbal Gardens Freeze and Dry your Herbs

A way to use your amble herb crop from your herbal gardens is to make flavored vinegars. To make herb vinegar, wash and dry your fresh herbs thoroughly then pour warm vinegar, not hot, over them in glass jars. You can use any type of vinegar but distilled. Be sure that the fresh herbs are completely covered by the vinegar. Seal the jar and allow them to sit for a month or two to mingle the flavors. Do not allow the herb vinegar access to direct sunlight.

After the herb vinegar has steeped remove the fresh herbs that you used and add new ones for a fresher look. If you want to add garlic or chili peppers to the herb vinegar, thread them on wooden skewers so that they will stay submerged.

There are no herb vinegar recipes that have strict rules. Use your imagination when pairing fresh herbs to be used in your herbal vinegar. Here are a few that go well together.

Cinnamon Basil and Whole Cloves
Lemon basil by itself
Cinnamon sticks with Whole Cloves Nutmeg and Allspice
Parsley, Sage, Rosemary, and Thyme -no kidding
Dill flowers with Peppercorns
Basil Garlic and Peppercorn
Hot Peppers alone or with Pearl Onions

When you start to use your herb vinegar, as the level of the liquid goes down take out any of the herbs that are exposed to the air in the jar. If you leave them in the jar they may form a mold. Never use metal tops on the jars, they will rust from the vinegar.

Your herbal gardens have been a success but now you have so many herbs you don’t know what to do. You’ve already made several herb vinegars. Still your herbal gardens have produced so much basil you can’t think of any other ways to use it. You’ve garnished every plate this summer with parsley from your herbal gardens and you still have a bumper crop. It is one dilemma that many herb gardeners have had over the years. There is a fix for abundant herbal gardens.

From your herbal gardens you can freeze herbs or dry herbs easily and by utilizing these methods you will have herbs long into the winter months. A favorite method is to wash and dry the herbs. Put them in the bottom of plastic ice trays, fill with stock and freeze. Anytime you make soups or stews just pop in as many as you wish. Once frozen put them in Ziploc bags and label with the name of the herb. If you were diligent about pinching your herbs back during the growing season you should have a lot of herbs from the herbal gardens. Pinching applies to oregano, chives, basil and thyme. Woody herbs like rosemary should be cut vigorously to keep them from getting too woody.

To freeze herbs without the stock, wash and gently dry the herbs. Put them in a Ziploc bag that can withstand the freezer. As needed you can take out your herbs and chop them for your recipes. The herbs will no longer be of use for garnishing but they will retain their flavor, they just won’t be as intense as fresh herbs from the herbal gardens.

To dry herbs is pretty simple. Pick the herbs from the herbal gardens after the dew has dissipated. Harvest from your herbal gardens just before the herbs bloom. That is when the herbs are at their peak flavor. Gather them into a bundle and tie a string around them. Hang them upside down in a room with good circulation and no light. This will take a bit of time. Drying time varies with humidity and temperature of your climate and the item that you are drying. Most of the time about 14 days will do it. To check pull off a leaf, if it crumbles easily it is ready. Once they are dried put them in a tight sealed container away from light.

You could use the microwave to dry herbs. Once again, harvest your herbs from your herbal gardens after the dew is gone. Wash and gently dry the herbs. Put them between two pieces of paper toweling. Two paper towels on the bottom and two on the top. Cook them on high for one minute and then check them. If they are still moist, cook again at twenty second intervals. You must watch this very carefully. Hot spots could occur and the towels catch on fire. Once they are crisp seal in an air tight container in a dark spot. Now you will have dried herbs from your herbal gardens all winter long..

Another alternative is to dry herbs in your oven. Turn the oven on to its lowest setting. Spread the herbs out on cookie sheets, put them in, prop open the door and check in about an hour, if they are not done continue drying, check ever thirty minutes. If possible leave the herb leaves intact. If you crush them before storing they will lose flavor.

When you go to use your dried herbs the rule of thumb for usage is that for every tablespoon of fresh herbs you would use, only use ½ teaspoon of dried.

This was to help you use up the abundance of herbs that you grew in your herb garden this summer. Enjoy!

Good Luck and have fun!

Copyright © 2006 Mary Hanna All Rights Reserved.

This article may be distributed freely on your website and in your ezines, as long as this entire article, copyright notice, links and the resource box are unchanged.

Mary Hanna is an aspiring herbalist who lives in Central Florida. This allows her to grow gardens inside and outside year round. She has published other articles on Cruising, Gardening and Cooking. Visit her websites at http://www.ContainerGardeningSecrets.com
http://www.GardeningHerb.com and
http://www.CruiseTravelDirectory.com

About the Author
Mary Hanna is an aspiring herbalist who lives in Central Florida. This allows her to grow gardens inside and outside year round. She has published other articles on Cruising, Gardening and Cooking. Visit her websites at http://www.CruiseTravelDirectory.com, http://www.ContainerGardeningSecrets.com, and http://www.GardeningHerb.com

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Candle Making At Home – Learn How To Make Candle

Candle Making At Home – Learn How To Make Candle

A candle is a solid block of fuel, which is made of wax and an embedded wick which is lit to provide light and sometimes heat. Most candles today are made from paraffin but it is sometimes made from beeswax, soy wax and other plant waxes. There is also another type of candles, the gel candles which is made from a mixture of paraffin and plastic.

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Candle making today have gained so much popularity, which brought about the rising number of people seeking to learn how to make candles. It is either a form of hobby or for the purpose of business.

Learning how to make candles at home is easy and a lot of fun. The supplies that you will need are crock pot or a double broiler, thermometer, candle wax chips (preferably pre-formulated for candles), glass container with a lid (for the candle), an appropriate sized pre-tabbed wick (the larger the jar, the larger the wick diameter needs to be in order to burn a puddle to the edges of the jar), essential oils or scented candle oils and food coloring.

The first step is to heat the wax in the crock pot, while the wax is heating, pre-heat the candle jar in the oven on the lowest setting. When the wax reaches 160 degrees mix scented oils first and stir, then add food coloring and stir. Avoid having a very high temperature. Now, take the candle glass out of the oven and pour the candle ingredients into the jar and straighten the wick. Stick the wick to the base of the jar to make the wick stand straight up on its own.

Let the candle completely cool at room temperature, this will usually take around 6 hours. If it has completely cooled down, trim the wick and your ready to use your very own candle. You can also be creative and use different containers as mold.

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This author writes about Candle Making Technique and Candle Making At Home

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Candle Making At Home

Candle Making At Home

Candle making at home is the interesting practice which was performed in early time more. Most of the people use to make candles at home by using the simple wax and thread but as the time has passed people well aware of luxurious things and hot to decorate the house then they start to make fancy candle which required some special equipments like color and glitter. There are many ways of candle making which we discuss in this article in such a way that you will get the idea of candle making at home. The candle making at home is performed by girls mostly because they are interested in art work.
Tips of candle making at home

There are many ways of candle making at home like if you have a jar and you want to make a candle with it then you can spread the wax in the jar along with the thread from the center of the jar and make sure that the jar is of wooden material and steel material other wise it gets melted. The second way of candle making at home is if you have a bottle which has big mouth and you think that it looks good in a candle shape then you can make the candle and you can decorate it of any kind like you can paint it and attach flower to it.
Courses of candle making at home

There are many institutes which are giving the lectures on art working and mostly girls are involved in such studies as they like art working. These institutes taught the different ways of decorating this candle in fancy style. These candles have different qualities as there are some candles which can not melt much wax but some candle can waste a lot of wax which is harmful for the kid’s ad pets. The candle making at home is interesting time pass and you can also take it economically for the profit earning.
Decoration of candle making at home

After reading the complete article you must be thinking about the ways of decorating the candle making at home well you can color the jar in which you are making the candle more over the wax of these candle is also wasted but make sure that the pain is not of plastic which makes the smell and you feel offensive. The candle making at home is in fashion for many year ago

Interested in learning more? Read more detailed writings about Candle Making At Home right now. Visit our site for lots of great Candles For The Home Information.

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